The nose was complex, but settled and ‘comfortable with itself’ – enticing sweetness and attractive wood – toffees in an antique cabinet, syrup sponge, fudge, rice crispie cakes, sticky toffee pudding, charcoal and lino cuts. This delightful duality continued on the palate – mouth-flooding sweetness (maple pecan Danish, orange-flavoured dark chocolate) along-side perfumed wood, pepper, buttered toast and flower stems. With water, the nose suddenly discovered peach melba, custard apple and passion-fruit – all in a well-tended barn or ‘pristine stable’. The palate now gave us orange fondant, Chantilly cream and a spicy finish – cinnamon, clove, ginger and ‘spiced cake mix off a wooden spoon’.
Drinking tip: Best enjoyed in a country house or stately home, preferably while counting your money.
Colour: Gold reflected in a magpie’s eye Cask: Refill hogshead Age: 28 years Date distilled: September 1987 Alcohol: 54.0% USA allocation: 84 bottles